Cuba's oldest museum was founded in 1899 by Emilio Bacardí Moreau, the former Santiago mayor whose rum-making family fled to Puerto Rico after the Revolution. It is just a few metres from the Parque Céspedes, in the heart of the city. The museum has an excellent collection of Cuban art, as well as some European works, some items from the wars of independence and an archaeological hall that features a 3,000-year-old Egyptian mummy, two Peruvian skeletons and a shrunken head. It houses the most important painting gallery in Cuba, displaying an enviable collection of colonial painting dating back two centuries.

In Tivolí you’ll find the famous Padre Pico steps, named for a Santiaguero priest who aided the city’s poor. Fidel Castro once roared fire and brimstone down on the Batista government here, but today you’ll find more pacific chess and domino players who have set up all-hours tables on the steps.

One of Santiago’s most delightful people-watching spots is Plaza Dolores, a shady plaza lined with colonial-era homes (several now house restaurants). Avenida José A. Saco (more commonly known as Enramada) is Santiago’s main shopping thoroughfare. Its faded 1950s neon signs and ostentatious buildings recall more prosperous times. Cobbled Calle Bartolomé Masó (also known as San Basilio), just behind Heredia and the cathedral, is a delightful street that leads down to the picturesque Tivolí district.

The most atmospheric part of the city is Old Santiago. Céspedes Park constitutes the political, religious, administrative and social center more important of the city. The attractive square is a genteel place with tall trees, gas lanterns and iron benches. In their perimeter were located by disposition of the Laws of Indias, the representative buildings of the power: Town Hall, Cathedral, the house of the governors and the mansions of the main families of the village. Parque Céspedes is dominated by its twin-towered cathedral. A basilica was built on this spot in 1528, but what you see was rebuilt in the early 19th century after a series of earthquakes and fires.