In Tivolí you’ll find the famous Padre Pico steps, named for a Santiaguero priest who aided the city’s poor. Fidel Castro once roared fire and brimstone down on the Batista government here, but today you’ll find more pacific chess and domino players who have set up all-hours tables on the steps.

Cuba's oldest museum was founded in 1899 by Emilio Bacardí Moreau, the former Santiago mayor whose rum-making family fled to Puerto Rico after the Revolution. It is just a few metres from the Parque Céspedes, in the heart of the city. The museum has an excellent collection of Cuban art, as well as some European works, some items from the wars of independence and an archaeological hall that features a 3,000-year-old Egyptian mummy, two Peruvian skeletons and a shrunken head. It houses the most important painting gallery in Cuba, displaying an enviable collection of colonial painting dating back two centuries.

The Granjita Siboney Museum is located in the road to Playa Siboney Beach, in the province of Santiago de Cuba. It is the former encampment from where the youngsters that took the Moncada Headquarters, the second military fortress in the city of Santiago de Cuba, on July 26th 1953 left. In the 7 exhibition rooms of this museum you’ll also discover the historic house, the previous preparations to the famous assault, the development and the consequences it had for Cuba. It exhibits valuable documents and personal objects of some of the intrepid young rebels. Among its most valued objects are the semiautomatic M-1 with folded butt used by the revolutionaries during the assault, sports rifle, uniforms, documents, photographs.

One of Santiago’s most delightful people-watching spots is Plaza Dolores, a shady plaza lined with colonial-era homes (several now house restaurants). Avenida José A. Saco (more commonly known as Enramada) is Santiago’s main shopping thoroughfare. Its faded 1950s neon signs and ostentatious buildings recall more prosperous times. Cobbled Calle Bartolomé Masó (also known as San Basilio), just behind Heredia and the cathedral, is a delightful street that leads down to the picturesque Tivolí district.